Spotlight Tea: 2007 Xiaguan Kai Men Hong Raw Pu Er Tuo

Pu-erh teas abound, made according to recipes that are guarded carefully. Some are created for special occasions or to commemorate certain events. The Kai Men Hong Tuo Cha is one such pu-erh, specially-ordered as a memorial Tuo Cha and first produced in early 2006 to represent the Xiaguan Tea Factory success.

Founded in 1941 in Dali, Yunnan Province, China, the Xiaguan Tea Factory has achieved a reputation for teas that have a unique flavor that some say is a bit sour but in a good way. As the teas age, the taste becomes even more complex.

This tuo is made using leaves collected from the Lincang tea growing areas. These are processed into a fine Spring maocha. The tea is steamed using Can Er spring water that is supposed to lend a highly desired special characteristic — sweetness and a mellow quality to the taste. That makes this particular tea fairly non-typical for the Xiaguan Tea Factory.

The tuo is packaged with care in a bright red box (the color that symbolizes good fortune to the Chinese) with golden yellow cloth inside. It makes this tuo perfect for giving a special tea gift to your tea loving friend. The box also protects the tuo from absorbing odors around it and from sudden and wide changes in humidity, such as can occur in the southeastern part of the U.S.

The tuo itself is wrapped in the traditional paper that allows it to breathe, even inside the box. The wrapper has a 4-digit number on it where the first 2 digits are the year the recipe was produced, the third is the grade of leaves used, and the last is the factory (3 for Xiaguan Tea Factory).

When unwrapped, the tuo appearance shows the leaves it is comprised of. Note the varying colors.

The price can seem a tad daunting for a mere 250 grams of tea leaves, but keep in mind the many infusions you will get out of each bit of leaves you break off and steep. When spread out over all the cups of tea you will steep from this one tuo it comes out to pennies per cup. We were able to get a good deal on these and so can present them at a better price than other vendors.

If you are new to pu-erh, this is a good introductory tea. If you are a regular imbiber, this one is still good to have as part of your array.

What Is CNNP?

When you’re dealing with tea vendors in China, you are also dealing with a different societal and governmental structure. CNNP is part of that structure. Let’s start with the basics: CNNP stands for “China National Native Produce.” (The full name is “China National Native Produce and Animal By-products Import & Export Corp.”)

Obviously, CNNP is a government-run entity established in 1949, making it the earliest-established foreign trade company in China. For 45 years, CNNP expanded from the base business of tea to other native produce and animal by-products and grew into a world trade organization, importing and exporting goods, but also in commerce, tourism, real estate, transportation, advertising, etc. By 1994 their export volume was a record $480 million, double their volume in the previous year.

Many of CNNP’s holdings, especially tea factories, were privatized, though, starting in 1997. While CNNP still operates today, few factories are state-owned, and CNNP contracts out many productions to privately owned factories.



Part of Xiaguan Raw Pu-erh Tea Sampler

Tea factories still running under CNNP include:

• Yunnan Tea Factory
• Kunming Tea Factory, established in 1938
• Ji Xing Tea Factory
• Pu'er Tea Factory
• Xiaguan Tea Factory, established in 1941  (See the teas we have available from there.)

Previous tea factories include:

• Menghai Tea Factory, established 1940  — they previously produced their teas under the zhōngchá label of CNNP, but registered the Dayi brand as their own product in June 1989, and began producing exclusively under this label in 1996. (See the teas we have available from there.)

While there is no doubt that CNNP helped build up the reputation and availability of Chinese teas in the world, they have also been wise to transition and let these tea factories, like young birds leaving the nest, soar on their own. We present both CNNP factory and independent factory teas to our customers, all with a high assurance of quality.

Tea News Updates

The world of tea is very active and always has something happening, even during dormant periods. This being late May, however, there is a lot going on.

Tea Harvests Progress

First flush tea harvests are complete, with many of these already being sold out. (They are generally harvested in March and April, depending on their location. In China, Pre-Qing teas, harvested from about March 30th through April 5th, are done as are the mid-April (Yu Qian) teas.)

Gu Yu (the day when the Sun is exactly at the celestial longitude of 30°, April 20) teas, plucked from April 21st to May 6th, are done. Li Xia teas, plucked from May 7th until May 21st, have just finished being harvested. Watch for these to be available for purchase.

A great gu yu tea is Long Jing (Dragonwell). This one was harvested in 2011 but has been carefully stored to preserve its fresh flavor.

In India, Darjeeling first flush teas have pretty much finished and shipped to vendors, Assam first flush is done with the second flush (what those “tippy” Assams are made of) is growing as you read this. The second flushes are underway.

In Japan, most regions are nearing the end of the harvest (usually the end of April through early May).

Bottled Tea Sales

As the weather turns warmer in much of the U.S., sales of bottled teas are increasing. Projections look rosy for bottled tea makers as more Americans dump the cola in favor of that tea. Black, green, oolong, and white in both flavored and straight versions are filling grocery store shelves, but not for long as buyers rush in to stock up. Flavors include lemon, peach, raspberry, and citrus, plus some less common ones like pineapple, apple, mint, strawberry, and chocolate.

Job Opportunities at Tea Gardens

With the change from hand-picked to machine harvesting in some tea growing countries such as Kenya a few years ago, jobs at tea gardens have also changed from rows of women out in among the tea plants to more skilled workers driving the harvesters. They also need other semi-skilled workers. For example, Unilever, a large-scale tea grower with a presence in various countries, had an ad online recently looking for drivers in Kenya to drive the lorries carrying harvested tea leaves to the processing plant. Other positions become available as harvesting times kick in.

About Yong Pin Hao Pu-erhs

Our apologies to Tea Urchin. We forgot the credit for his photos.

Yong Hin Pao Pu-erhs are among some of the best available. Yet, little is known of the factory that produces them other than it’s located in Yunnan Province in China. The tea leaves are harvested from Yiwu Mountain and Man Zhuan Mountain.

Yiwu Mountain

Yiwu is probably the most famous tea mountain in the Pu-erh world and is the biggest of the six famous tea mountains in the Yunnan Province. On the foothills of Yiwu, a high concentration of Taidi (plantations) can be seen. A lot of the teas from this area, however, are Gushu (made from the old growth trees) as much as 200 years old and with thick trunks.



Photos courtesy of the Tea Urchin.

The area has many small villages where tea is an important part of their economy. Some tea farmers, though, saw a big drop in prices and so cut down many of those old tea trees, only to regret it later and the teas became more well-known and prices rose.

Mahei, a village about 9 kilometers from Yiwu city, is the most well-known of those villages. They, along with Luoshuidong, Daqishu and Manxiu, produce teas that are characteristic of the region, having the “proper Yiwu taste,” as one tea connoisseur calls it. The tea trees are not planted in rows but instead can be found in clear grounds and in forests. They are short enough, though, for more easy harvesting. Not all of the trees are old. Just as with any more natural growth, there are young plants in among the older ones. The Yiwu mountain area is still wild enough that tourists often only go as far as the Mahei village. However, the remote location assures no pollution. Producers vary in their quality, some taking more care than others. So, choose carefully.

Yiwu tea is excellent, this is also why it is so pricey. It is sweet but not weak. Good Yiwu tea slowly makes you feel high, and, in this aspect, is similar to Lao Banzhang. Yiwu is thus considered an important Pu-erh mountain.

Man Zhuan Mountain

Man Zhuan Mountain is a neighbor mountain to Yiwu Mountain in Mengla county (Xishuangbanna Prefecture) in China. It is one of the six famous tea mountains in the area and the small Man Zhuan village, comprised of only 28 families, is reputed to be one of the best places to buy pure Gushu near Yiwu. The villagers share 50-60mu of old trees split into parcels of land on the east & west sides of the mountain (elevation 1,250m) and harvest leaves five times per year, producing an average of 100kg of maocha. The frequent harvests actually improves tea flavor as it encourages bud growth. The families have bamboo drying trays set up all over to sun dry the leaves. You can see them all around the village. And the teas they produce are known for their exceptional fragrance.



Photos courtesy of the Tea Urchin.

Some examples (in order of year first pressed and all currently sold out):

2000 Yong Pin Hao "Yi Wu Zheng Shan" Stone-Pressed Raw tea — Pressed from naturally growing (wild arbor) trees that are 100 to 200 years of age. Entirely first flush of Spring 2000 (end of March).

2003 Yong Pin Hao "Stone-Pressed Man Zhuan Mountain Wild Arbor" — Similar to Yi Wu but different in appearance and taste. Lighter color and more prominent fat white shoots. A subtle flowery aromatic quality.

2003 Yong Pin Hao "Yi Wu Zheng Shan" Stone-Pressed Raw tea — Pressed from naturally growing (wild arbor) trees that are 100 to 200 years of age. Entirely first flush of Spring 2003 (end of March).

2005 Yong Pin Hao "Stone-Pressed Yi Wu Mountain" tea cake — First flush of Spring 2005 material. The brewed tea is thick and sweet, the liquor color is a deep yellow. An excellent hand-processed Yi Wu tea from a natural setting. Thick deep golden colored liquor and a nutty rich taste.

You may not have a chance to travel there, but Yong Hin Pao pu-erhs are certainly worth checking out.

See also: What’s So Special About Mengku Tea?

Spotlight Tea: 2011 Spring Handmade Premium Liu An Gua Pian

As pointed out in a previous article (The Basics of Liu An Gua Pian Tea) Liu An Gua Pian is a tea that requires very specific processing. Time to shine the spotlight on this fine Chinese tea.

Take a Close Look:

The first thing to notice are the full leaves, not broken bits, fannings, or dust. That means this tea has undergone a very careful harvesting (one bud with two leaves are picked but the bud is then separated and only the leaves are used), processing and sorting. The next this is the color of the leaves — a dark bluish green with some lighter green. An then is the shape, which is tight and stick shaped. This version [http://www.jas-etea.com/2011-spring-handmade-premium-liu-an-gua-pian-25g/] was a 2011 harvest but is as fresh as the day it was packaged.

Note how full the leaves “plump out” after several steepings. Using a glass teapot or gaiwan helps you enjoy the sight.

The tea is named after the city of Liu An where it is produced and Gua Pian, which means “melon piece.”

Appreciating the Tea

Just as care was taken in preparing the dry tea leaves, so should you take care in steeping and appreciating the tea. Try this method when using a glass gaiwan or cup for steeping:

• Use about 2 to 4 grams of dry leaves per session per your personal taste.
• Use water heated to 85-90°C (185-194°F).
• Warm the glass cup with hot water and then pour it out.
• Put the dry tea leaves in the warm cup, then rotate it gently and smell the aroma.
• Pour 1/3 of the heated water into the cup and rotate the leaves in the water gently for 10 seconds, smelling the aroma.
• Finally, pour the remaining needed water into the cup for the first infusion (about 3 minutes).
• Additional infusions: add a little time per infusion to a maximum of 4 minutes.

You should get at least 3 very satisfying infusions. Proper steeping will help you achieve these taste results.

Final Note

A little time. A little knowledge. A big payoff. Get the most from your fine teas!

Storing Your Pu-erhs for Best Aging

Pu-erh teas can be real investments. You buy them and then store them so they continue aging. After awhile you take them out and have some. Hopefully, you stored them right for the best aging experience and therefore the best taste. How long you store them can depend on several factors, one being how old they are when you buy them. A pu-erh pressed into a cake in 2007 and purchased in 2013 is already six years old and, if it’s been properly stored, could already be up for a try. Or you can choose to store it for a few years more.



2010 Menghai Tea Factory 8592 Recipe Ripe Pu-erh

Pu-erh teas are stored and left to mature for decades like classic wines and then can fetch astronomical prices at auctions, being worth their weight in gold.

Different Storage for Different Pu-erhs

Pu-erhs are made according to many recipes using a range of tea leaves from various locations. Each is unique on how it ages and can take 10, 20, or even 30 years to reach their peak of flavor. The longer the aging, generally speaking, the more complex and rich the flavor and overall appeal. A storage “caretaker” can monitor the teas periodically, checking for problems with humidity, insect infestation, mold, and the status of aging for each tea, knowing when a tea has reached its peak before it goes into decline. Many of the tea's treasured characteristics will quickly fade away if the tea is not handled properly.

Young pu-erh tea is quite astringent and mellows with aging — the longer the better. Store in a dry environment for several years. The pu-erh undergoes a fermentation process due to microbes present in the tea leaves.

Green pu-erh tea aging can be hastened artificially by storing it in a humid environment, a process called “aspergillus post-fermentation” that is used on cheaper grades of pu-erh tea. This type of pu-erh, if not processed correctly, can contain harmful bacteria.

White pu-erh, characterized by a light and sophisticated taste and a liquid that is light with a gentle flavor, can be stored for ten years.

What to Do

Mold and fungi infection are common problems stemming from bad storage conditions.

• Breathable (not airtight) packaging is crucial. It’s easiest to just keep the tea in the original factory packaging. Avoid plastic and other materials that block the flow of air.
• Do not store with items that emit strong odors or be sure those items are stored in airtight containers.
• Keep humidity at no more than 70%. Most basements, therefore, would be unsuitable.
• Avoid fluctuation in temperature and sunlight beyond a minimal range.

Protect Your Investment

You can shove your pu-erhs into a corner and forget about them, but don’t be too shocked at the flavor disaster you may encounter when next steeping some. Better yet, take care when storing your pu-erhs, and you’ll have a wonderful tea experience for years to come.

Spotlight Tea: 2011 Spring Premium Mt. Wudong Yu Lan Xiang (Magnolia) Phoenix Dancong Oolong

The “Phoenix” is a mythical bird that bursts into flames at the end of its life, burns to ashes, and then is reborn from those ashes. The new phoenix is even better than the previous version. This tea is like that mythical bird in that each infusion is better than the one before. Famous for its floral (Magnolia) fragrance and long sweet aftertaste, Dancong Oolong steeps up a thick liquid prized by tea connoisseurs.

The tea varietal is a 30- to 50-year-old clone of a more than 600-year-old Feng Huang Dancong tree, and the leaves were harvested in early April. This tea, unique to the Chaozhou area of Guangdong Province in China, is in the orchid aroma category, having a distinct, natural magnolia (Yu Lang flower) aroma and honey taste that delivers lingering pleasure yet is quite different from other orchid teas like Da Wu Ye. Most of the tea varietals grown in the Fenghuang/Phoenix Mountain area are considered Shui Xian varietal tea trees, which is the same name as the more famous Wu Yi mountain varietal. However, the sub-variety names refer to the wide array of aromas the trees produce in the processed leaves. The varietal used here is Yu Lan Xiang (“Magnolia Blossom Fragrance”).

Open the package and inhale the aroma of the tea leaves. You will be intoxicated by that fresh magnolia blossom perfume cloud, intense and a bit bittersweet. There is a touch of “green” bitterness in the background. Sometimes there is a slight hint of coconut in the finish, adding an interesting element.

Use a gaiwan for steeping, water heated to 100°C, and start with a quick rinse. The slightly twisted dry leaves will “wake up,” soaking in some of the water and releasing a divine magnolia blossom aroma. Watch your steeping times, starting with 20 seconds, then 25 seconds, and adding a few seconds for each subsequent infusion. As many as 10 infusions are possible.

If you love oolong but haven’t tried this one yet, it’s time to give this excellent and fragrant tea a try.